I took the opportunity recently to taste the last three vintages of Out on a Limb Pinot Noir side by side. I’ve written before about Out on a Limb (here). This is a small, Pinot focussed vineyard in WA’s Great Southern. The vineyard has Kalgan river frontage, quartz underneath the soil and is tended to by hand by surfer and vigneron Ben Carmody.
A quick summary… None of these are block-buster styled wines – that’s neither the aim, nor the execution. My notes should be interpret in context relative to that base. The alcohols are low, the oak is restrained, the vineyard talks through the fruit, and it does so with eloquence. Classy tannins hold them together. Like all great wines, time in the glass (and a rest overnight) was helpful teasing out the nuances. Indeed, I would suggest that none of these wines were drinking at their peak, and they are likely to improve over the medium term without losing any of their seductive youthful qualities. Both the 777 clone (described by others as sarsaparilla / cola / slightly medicinal – to which I’d add baked raspberries and a slightly ‘feral’ component ) and 115 clone (which brings classic Pinot flavours, cherry & structure to the wine) work together with synergy. There is the unmistakable stamp of Great Southern Pinot in the wines, but also a resemblance to the bright and flavoursome wines of Mornington, perhaps due to the maritime element.
2020. Very, very pleasant nose. Pure Pinot, elegantly perfumed and enticing. Bright cherries, Rose Petals. Tannins and mouthfeel are slightly chalky. Gorgeous summer fruits dominate the palate. A hint of marmalade is woven in, with a nice savoury twist at the finish. Of the three wines, this changed the least with air, though offered some sour cherries and caramel after about an hour. All the elements here are well integrated, making for an outstanding wine in every sense. At this stage in its evolution this is positively dreamy, and on this occasion my favourite of the three.
2021. Similar colour to the 20, with a deeper, more fragrant bouquet. The flavours though, are different here, tending more towards grilled meats, and savoury elements. This is serious and brooding, with the tannins running the length of the palate. But with some air, a core of bright raspberries, red fruits and Turkish delight reveal themselves, all of which were more prominent on the second day. The tannins are slightly dustier than the 20, but the commonality is the gorgeous soft finish. I came back to it many times, and it was constantly evolving, improving over 24 hours. Although my least preferred of the three due to a few certain flavours sticking out a fraction, I could see some people falling for this in a big way. The 2021 is full of intriguing layers, and as it integrates and settles may become something special with time.
2022. Labelled Reserve. The most youthful, vibrant hue. Opened up to quite a reticent nose, and needed a bit more air to coax out the flavours. When they came, there were sour cherries, strawberries and slightly confectionary red fruits. In comparison with the other two, this tasted a bit riper, sweeter perhaps, and with a bit more body to the wine. It maintains a delicate texture despite the concentration of fruit. The length is a defining feature here, the other being a touch of new oak that adds some class, and a sense of familiarity. At the moment this is youthful, and flirting – but there is nothing cryptic here. Rather, what is on display is the brazen confidence of an attractive youngster, one that is full of confidence and up-front charm. Great stuff, this is a wine that fully shows off the region, and this vineyard at its best.
For more : http://www.outonalimb.com.au
The Wine Accomplice 